Argentina’s Lake District ― Traveling the ‘Circuito Chico’

by Chris Kjelgaard on August 22, 2009

It’s inconceivable that you miss the chance at least to take a close look at this famous hotel, which is approached by its own road that climbs up from the shore of the lake through the hotel’s grounds. In this author’s opinion, it’s also highly advisable for you to get past the security guards at the main gate by telling them you’re going for lunch at the hotel and then doing that very thing at the hotel’s Café Patagonia.

Café Patagonia is one of three restaurants at Hotel Llao Llao: The other two are the high-class, French-style Los Césares and, in a huge hall, an evening-only buffet accompanied by beef and lamb grilled on the asado open grill that is an Argentinean trademark. While Los Césares also is highly personally recommended for a sumptuous dinner accompanied by lots of delightful little bonnes bouches, the Café Patagonia was the author’s personal favorite.


The view across Lago Moreno Oeste to Cerro Tronador from Hotel Llao Llao's Café Patagonia is absolutely stunning at any time of day. But it's particularly beautiful at midsummer sunset, around 11 p.m., when the author took this photograph

The view across Lago Moreno Oeste to Cerro Tronador from Hotel Llao Llao's Café Patagonia is absolutely stunning at any time of day. But it's particularly beautiful at midsummer sunset, around 11 p.m., when the author took this photograph

That’s because the casual-dress Café Patagonia not only provides superb, light, Mediterreanean-style dishes which successfully blend complementary tastes and arrive in portions that will satisfy even the hearty eater, but the restaurant’s panoramic windows offer absolutely stunning views at any time of day south over Lago Moreno Oeste to Cerro Tronador, and north over Lago Nahuel Huapi.

While you’re at Hotel Llao Llao having lunch, afternoon tea in the hotel’s indoor Winter Garden or out on its terrace, or dinner at either of the named restaurants (though the author doesn’t particularly recommend dining at the asado and buffet), make sure also to look round the rest of the hotel’s public spaces and its grounds, which enjoy amazing views. Llao Llao is a famous hotel and many very famous people have stayed there: Photographs of some of the dignitaries who have stayed at Llao Llao, among them Juan and Eva Peron and Dwight D. Eisenhower, line the walls of the main staircase.

Situated atop a bluff on a narrow ishtmus between Lago Nahuel Huapi and Lago Moreno Oeste, Hotel Llao Llao has stunning, 360-degree vistas. THis view from the hotel's grounds looks west over Lago Moreno Oeste. In the middle distance can be seen the spit of land that divides Lago Moreno Oeste and Lago Moreno Este, with the eastern branch of the lake lying beyond. The Circuito Chico road passes along the spit and then climbs the lower slopes of Cerro Lopez, in the center right of the picture

Situated atop a bluff on a narrow ishtmus between Lago Nahuel Huapi and Lago Moreno Oeste, Hotel Llao Llao has stunning, 360-degree vistas. THis view from the hotel's grounds looks west over Lago Moreno Oeste. In the middle distance can be seen the spit of land that divides Lago Moreno Oeste and Lago Moreno Este, with the eastern branch of the lake lying beyond. The Circuito Chico road passes along the spit and then climbs the lower slopes of Cerro Lopez, in the center right of the picture

After you’ve visited Hotel Llao Llao, all that remains ― until your next trip along the northern part of the Circuito Chico, this time directly to Porto Pañuelo to board a boat for a day cruise on Lago Nahuel Huapi ― is to wend your way back east towards Bariloche. Or, if you’re feeling up for more scenery rather than road congestion, go back the way you came, and you’ll miss out maybe 10 kilometres of touristy sprawl until eventually you rejoin the main Bariloche road.

By Chris Kjelgaard

This is one of a series of  features on Argentina’s Lake District that www.AirlinesAndDestinations.com is publishing in August 2009.

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